The Ultimate Guide to Keeping Rabbits as Pets in Australia

By Sophie Kininmonth · 3 Feb 2026 (updated 21 Jul 2026) ·6 min read

The Ultimate Guide to Keeping Rabbits as Pets in Australia

Rabbits are small, watchful grazers built for movement and constant chewing, and a well-kept one settles into a steady rhythm of eating, exploring and resting that many owners find genuinely calming. They are quiet, they can be litter trained, and with patient handling they become friendly and interactive. They are also a real commitment, closer in needs to a cat or dog than to the "starter kit" most pet shops sell alongside them. In Australia the practical stakes are high: the wrong housing, heat, diet or disease prevention can turn a quiet pet into an emergency very quickly. Before anything else, check whether you can legally keep one where you live.

Legality: rabbits and state law

Domestic rabbits are legal companion animals in most of Australia, but they are illegal to keep as pets in Queensland, where they are treated as an invasive species. Ownership can depend on your state or territory, so confirm the current rules with your state authority before you commit. If you are in Queensland and want a similar small companion, a legal alternative is the guinea pig.

Rabbits in Australia: pet animal, invasive species

Two things are true at once. Domestic rabbits are companions, while feral European rabbits are a serious environmental and agricultural pest across the continent. That difference is exactly why escape-proof housing, desexing and never releasing an unwanted animal matter so much.

European rabbits were present in the colony from the First Fleet era, but the event most closely tied to Australia's feral rabbit explosion is Thomas Austin's release of European wild rabbits in Victoria in 1859, after which rabbits spread rapidly across the country.¹

Temperament and behaviour

Rabbits are alert, social animals that notice routines, sounds and small changes in their space. Many become friendly and interactive with calm, predictable handling, but they are not built to be carried around. A rabbit that struggles in your arms is usually responding to feeling unstable and exposed, not being difficult.

Common behaviours you will see at home include:

Thumping, a hind-foot stamp, when startled or uncertain
Chinning objects to mark familiar territory with scent glands
Binkies, a leap and twist that often appears during energetic exercise²

Housing and environment

Space is the first thing to get right. A rabbit's home should allow it to stretch out fully, stand tall on its hind legs and move in more than a couple of hops. Pens and indoor base camps usually work better than small hutches, because rabbits need room to travel rather than a box to sit in. Victoria's animal welfare guidance describes pet rabbits as needing a minimum of 4 hours of daily exercise, including running, hopping, jumping and access to platforms and hiding places.³

Indoor set-ups

Indoors is often the safest default, especially where mosquitoes and flies are active and wild rabbits are common. Aim for:

a secure exercise pen or rabbit-proofed room as the main living area
non-slip flooring (rugs or mats help)
a litter tray with rabbit-safe litter, topped with hay
hidey spots such as boxes and tunnels, so the rabbit can choose to withdraw

Outdoor set-ups

Outdoor housing needs stronger engineering: shade, ventilation, predator-proofing and protection from rain and temperature extremes. Heat stress is a real risk, and Animal Welfare Victoria notes rabbits' susceptibility and the need for protection from extreme temperatures and weather.³

Enrichment that fits rabbit instincts

Rabbits do not need constant novelty, but they do need things to do. Favour simple, chewable, rearrangeable items:

cardboard boxes with doorways cut in
paper bags stuffed with hay (no glossy inks)
untreated willow or rabbit-safe chew sticks
tunnels and low platforms for climbing and lookout points

Diet and nutrition

Hay comes first, always. In a healthy adult rabbit, grass or grass hay should be the bulk of the diet, because it supports steady gut movement and gives the teeth the constant wear they are designed for. RSPCA guidance puts hay and grass at about 80% of the diet, with leafy greens and vegetables at about 15%, and pellets at up to 5% (not essential if hay and greens are offered properly).⁴

What to feed day-to-day

Unlimited grass hay, fresh, sweet-smelling and low in dust
leafy greens and vegetables, washed and rotated for variety⁴
a small amount of high-quality pellets if useful for your rabbit's condition and weight⁴
fresh, clean water available at all times (many rabbits drink better from a bowl)⁴

Foods to avoid

Skip muesli-style rabbit mixes and high-sugar, high-starch extras. RSPCA notes these mixes encourage selective feeding and are linked with obesity and dental problems.⁴

Health and lifespan

Rabbits hide illness well, so small changes matter. With good care many pet rabbits live into older age, though lifespan varies with genetics, diet, housing and veterinary care, so plan for a long-term commitment.

Common problems to take seriously

Dental disease, often tied to insufficient fibre and chewing time. Rabbit teeth grow continuously, so diet and regular checks are crucial.^{2, 4}
Gut slowdown (gastrointestinal stasis), which can be triggered by pain, stress, low fibre intake, dehydration or underlying disease. This is an urgent veterinary situation.
Heat stress, especially in hot, still weather or poorly ventilated hutches.³

Vaccination and biosecurity (calicivirus / RHD)

Rabbit haemorrhagic disease virus (RHDV, often called calicivirus) is present in Australia and can spread through direct contact, contaminated items such as clothing, hutches and bowls, and insects such as flies. The Australian Government advises hygiene, insect control, appropriate housing, avoiding contact with wild rabbits, and vaccination to reduce risk.⁵

CSIRO's national updates have repeatedly reported RHDV2 as the dominant circulating strain in tested cases, and they encourage owners to keep pet rabbits indoors where possible, control insects, disinfect equipment and vaccinate.^{6, 7, 8}

Vaccination advice changes with products and local outbreaks, so it is best handled with your local vet using current Australian guidance.⁵

Grooming and routine care

Most rabbits cope well with gentle, regular grooming, especially during seasonal moults. The goal is simple: keep the coat free of mats, reduce swallowed fur and notice changes early.

Brush weekly, more often during heavy moulting; long-haired breeds may need frequent sessions
Check nails regularly and trim as needed (your vet can show you safely)
Do quick daily checks of eating, droppings, posture, breathing, eyes and nose

Training and socialisation

Rabbits learn by repetition and safety. Keep sessions short and calm, and use food rewards sparingly so you do not crowd out hay. Helpful, low-pressure goals include:

litter training with a hay-topped litter tray
coming to a cue for meals
settling on a mat for grooming

RSPCA notes rabbits need space, daily opportunities to run and dig, and dedicated time with you for grooming and play, simple routines that build trust without forcing interaction.²

The Bottom Line

A well-kept rabbit household is usually quiet: the rustle of hay, the soft thud of a hop, a pause in a cardboard doorway to listen. Get the basics right, meaning room to move, fibre-rich food, and protection from heat and disease, and check the law where you live first. Do that, and rabbits tend to repay the effort with steady companionship on their own gentle terms.

References

Sophie Kininmonth

Dog lover and writer at My Pets Australia, sharing practical breed guides and care advice for Australian pet owners.