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Pet Spider Food

Sophie Kininmonth By Sophie Kininmonth · (updated 21 Jul 2026) ·5 min read
Pet Spider Food

Feeding a pet spider is one of the simplest parts of keeping one, once you understand the rhythm. Most spiders kept in Australia, tarantulas especially, want the same three things: live insects sized to the spider, clean water available at all times, and a routine that flexes with age, temperature, and moulting. The good news is that spiders are quiet, low-maintenance feeders that go days or weeks between meals without fuss. The one thing worth getting right is the small stuff: prey size, when to pull uneaten crickets, and when to stop feeding altogether. Get those wrong and the risks are subtle but real, from dehydration and mould to a live feeder left in with a moulting spider.

What pet spiders eat (and what they don't)

Most commonly kept pet spiders are obligate predators. Tarantulas, in particular, hunt and scavenge animal prey rather than eating plant matter.1, 2

In the wild, tarantulas mostly take insects and other small animals, and only rarely "birds", despite the nickname.1

Staple feeder insects

Good everyday options are commercially bred feeder insects, matched to the spider's size and hunting style:

  • Crickets
  • Roaches (where available and legal in your area)
  • Mealworms, superworms, and other beetle larvae (use as variety, not the only feeder)
  • Waxworms (very fatty, best as an occasional change)

Many keepers gut-load their feeder insects, feeding them well for 24 to 48 hours, so the spider benefits from the prey's nutrients.4

Fruit and vegetables: usually unnecessary

Fresh fruit and vegetables are not a normal part of most pet spider diets, and they spoil quickly in warm, humid enclosures. If you want to offer variety, improve feeder quality through gut-loading rather than leaving produce in the enclosure.4

Avoid wild-caught insects

Wild insects can carry pesticide residues and parasites. Stick to purpose-bred feeders whenever you can.3, 4

How often to feed

Feeding frequency depends on species, temperature, and life stage. As a broad guide for tarantulas:

  • Spiderlings: small feeds several times per week, often every other day
  • Adults: typically every 7 to 14 days

Skipping meals can be normal, especially around moulting.3, 5

Let the spider's body condition guide you

Rather than counting meals, watch the abdomen (opisthosoma). A healthy abdomen is rounded but not ballooned. If it looks overly swollen, ease back. If it looks noticeably small or wrinkled, prioritise water first, then offer food.6

Prey size: the quiet safety rule

Choose prey that is safely manageable, generally no larger than the spider's body length, and often smaller for young spiders. Oversized prey can stress or injure a spider, especially if it is in pre-moult or simply not interested.3

Water matters more than most people expect

Tarantulas cope with missed meals far better than missed water. Provide clean water at all times in a shallow dish, and keep it fresh.5

If you are using small live feeders like crickets, adding a few small pebbles to the water dish can reduce drowning and mess, while still letting the spider drink.3

How to feed your pet spider

  1. Pick a feeder insect that is the right size and in good condition (active, not dying).
  2. Offer one prey item at a time, especially for spiderlings and cautious species.
  3. Observe briefly. Many spiders feed at night, so an immediate strike is not required for the feed to count as successful.
  4. Remove uneaten live prey within 24 hours to reduce stress, prevent bites to a resting spider, and keep the enclosure cleaner.3
  5. Remove leftovers (legs, wings, husks) before they mould or attract mites.

Moulting: when to stop feeding

Moulting is when a spider sheds its exoskeleton, and it changes the feeding rules completely. During this period the spider may refuse food for days or weeks. The key move is simple: remove all live prey if your spider is in pre-moult or has started moulting, because a feeder insect can damage a vulnerable spider.5

After a moult, wait before feeding again so the fangs and new exoskeleton can harden. A common guideline is around 7 to 10 days for many tarantulas, longer for very small spiderlings or large individuals.5

Supplements: when they help

For most pet spiders, routine calcium or vitamin dusting is not essential in the way it is for many reptiles. Better results usually come from:

  • using a variety of feeder insects
  • gut-loading feeders properly
  • keeping water available and the enclosure clean

If you are concerned about a specific species, growth stage, or an ongoing refusal to feed, seek species-specific husbandry advice from a reputable arachnid organisation or an exotics vet.

Common feeding mistakes

  • Leaving crickets in overnight: remove uneaten live prey within 24 hours, especially if the spider is hiding or approaching a moult.3, 5
  • Feeding wild-caught insects: use captive-bred feeders to reduce pesticide and parasite risk.3, 4
  • Offering prey that is too large: size down, because smaller prey is safer and still nutritious.3
  • Trying to fix a hunger strike with more food: check water, temperature, and signs of pre-moult first, since many healthy adults skip meals naturally.3, 5
  • Using fruit and veg as a main diet: focus on feeder quality (gut-loading) rather than leaving produce to spoil.4

Keeping feeder insects fresh and safe

Healthy feeders make for safer feeding. Keep insects in clean, well-ventilated containers, feed them a decent diet (gut-loading), and avoid exposing them to sprays, fumes, or cleaning products. Buy only what you will use in a reasonable time, and discard any feeders that look unwell.

The Bottom Line

Pet spider food is less about recipes and more about rhythm: live prey of the right size, offered at sensible intervals, with water always available and the enclosure kept clean. Most spiders thrive on that quiet consistency, and they show you what is working by how they moult, rest, and feed over time.

References

  1. Australian Museum, Australian tarantulas (diet and behaviour)
  2. U.S. National Park Service, Invertebrates (tarantula diet notes)
  3. Carolina Biological Supply, Tarantula care guide (feeding frequency, removing uneaten prey, water)
  4. PetSmart, Scorpion and tarantula digital care guide (gut-loading, avoid wild-caught insects)
  5. Amateur Entomologists' Society, Tarantula care sheet (water importance, moulting and feeding timing)
  6. Dial A Vet, Tips to care for a pet tarantula (body condition and feeding basics)
Sophie Kininmonth
Sophie Kininmonth

Dog lover and writer at My Pets Australia, sharing practical breed guides and care advice for Australian pet owners.